One of the immense pleasures I get from working at B-21 is that I’m surrounded by world class Champagne and sparkling wines. Our selection is the best in Florida and is as good as you will find anywhere in the U.S. I drink it every chance I get, and find that it is one of the most food-friendly of all wines. So, why do so many just buy it for special occasions, or to use as a gift? Here are three reasons to drink more Champagne and sparkling wines:
It’s very food friendly. I can’t think of anything better with Asian food, batter-fried fish, calamari, salty foods, spicy dishes or sushi than a dry sparkling wine. For you pizza hounds, give the Lambrusco a try – it’s a better match than you think!
It’s refreshing – especially in the dog days of summer. Most sparkling wines are also a bit lower in alcohol than many table wines, making them easier to drink, and less heavy on the palate. They make near perfect aperitifs because they stimulate the taste buds and appetite.
Sonoma Coast is a new Burgundy in America for me. Cool breeze and Pacific fog makes clear, precise chardonnay I don’t often find in California. These are not creamy pop wines, but structured and built for food, and in summer that means seafood. I have great luck in this young appellation especially from smart new growers like Flowers and Failla who follow European standards. Helps that Flowers got his start as a nurseryman and that Failla has roots in Turley; they both care about grapes and winemaking that puts wine before winemaking. Very elegant chardonnay; wish there were more. So when I get chards like these I want a lobster roast or scallops and shrimp, a big slab of white fish grilled with lime and just a touch of butter. Put some fruit on the grill too. The Flowers is more delicate and subtle, full of apples and pears, while Failla is richer and peachy. Take your pick, or order both, and have a special dinner with your new friends from California.
2010 Flowers Chardonnay
…Apricots, peaches, lemon, mint and savory herbs wrap around the textured, broad-shouldered finish. A vivid, striking wine, the 2010 is loaded with personality…. 92 points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate
2011 Failla Chardonnay
Pure, clean scents of ripe apple, melon, pear and subtle citrus form the core of this bright, elegant, delicate version. Subtle oak comes through on the finish…. 92 points, Wine Spectator
I can barely pronounce Aphillanthes, but I can sure drink anything Daniel Boulle makes. All mind-blowers. And this CdR of VV grenache and mourvedre cuvee is stunningly intense, dark stuff, full of ripe berries, mushrooms, licorice, smoke and spice. That’s the signature of our sweet spot in the Rhone, the stony “plain of God” and low hills around Rasteau and Cairanne scattered between Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas. The 2010 vintage was a beauty and Boules is a never-fail perfectionist. I found him through our importer pal Peter Weygandt who loves exploring the Rhone as much as I do. Another “up from the co-op” story of a fourth generation wine maker who took his family’s 80-year-old vines and made a big-rating name for themselves. Even Parker calls them the richest he’s tasted. With great terroir, tiny yields and the advice of our friend Phillipe Cambie, these wines make Aphillanthes easy on the tongue. And I make it easy on your wallet and easier to love.
St. Henri is Penfolds’ other icon, a Bordeaux-styled shiraz that is friendlier than Grange and just as old. Darn impressive at one tenth the price. It has always had its own cult: Penfolds lovers seeking elegance saw beautifully good value in a rich shiraz with a lot less waiting. The secret is that Penfolds adds a punch of cabernet to the shiraz and raises it in old wood vats. Naked flavor of grapes, not oak. No better example than the 2008 vintage: WA called the ’08 Grange a 100-point wine, but and you’ll spend 15 to 20 years and $700 to enjoy it. Yet Neal Martin assesses St. Henri as a gorgeous and gregarious 95-pointer. So it’s five points shy of perfection, at 95 still a rare jewel and at my price you can buy enough to get through years of waiting on Grange.
2008 Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz …copious layers of black cherry, cassis, cedar and just a hint of fresh beetroot. The palate is full-bodied with a dense carapace of primal blackberry and cassis fruit. …well balanced and offers great delineation… Drink 2024-2045. 95 points, eRobertParker.com
You and I have been loving old-vine garnacha from Alto Moncayo for years. I thought the 2009 Veraton was through the roof when I tried it on the road with Jorge Ordonez, the wild Spanish explorer (and our travelin’ buddy)… but the 2010 beats it silly. 95 points silly!
Perfect expression of this hot dry windy corner of old Spain… all red clay and red slate. Garnacha has never been more luscious and lusty. This 2010 is one of the best Spanish wines I’ve had in the last year. Exciting intensity, remarkable depth and length attributed to the soil. Impressive drive. Credit ideal terroir plus Jorge, his local partners and Oz wizardry of Chris Ringland, the Mr. Grenache of Australia. There’s no better buy from Spain than this 2010 Veraton.
2010 Alto Moncayo Veraton
Intensity is remarkable, great precision on the nose and palate. The intensity of the finish is attributed to 40-60 year old vines in slate/red clay soils. The length is sustained. …an extraordinary rendition of Garnacha….
The subtlety and silkiness that Andrea Franchetti’s genius gets from the slopes of Sicily’s rugged volcano take take me straight to the Cote de Nuits and Piemonte (at half the cost). Berries and flowers in the nose, bright flavor, sleek body and electric nerve. Yet the grape is local nerello mascalese, not pinot or nebbiolo and nothing like the Bordeaux varieties he brought to Tuscany so famously. Funny thing, this is not what Andrea intended in 2000. He thought Etna would make very big reds he said in a great interview I saw in Vinography. Instead the old mountain taught him (can’t argue with a Sicilian lava flow, I’ve seen it). The nerello vines are 70, 80 years old, and vineyards follow contradas, lines laid out in the flows long ago. So Franchetti cleaned up the vines, picked late and treated the wine gently. The nerello paid back his respect with gorgeous single-vineyard “Contrada” wines and this beautiful blend. Franchetti also gave Etna a superb chardonnay. Together, they thrill Italian wine lovers like me every year. To make sure you get in on the adventure and the elegance, join us and climb the volcano. It’s breathtaking.
2010 Passopisciaro Passopisciaro Rosso
…scents of black truffles, incense, smoked game, creosote, spring flowers and black fruits. Full-bodied with mouth-staining tannin as well as mouth-saturating extract and richness… 94 points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate
2009 Passopisciaro Guardiola (Chardonnay) Pale straw. Pungent apple, buttercup and mineral aromas along with a hint of resin on the complex nose. Juicy, concentrated flavors of thyme, lime, banana, honey and stone coat the palate…. 90 points, S. Tanzer’s Int’l Wine Cellar
2010 Passopisciaro Guardiola (Chardonnay) …impresses for a rich, textured fabric of peaches, apricots and flowers. Clean mineral notes emerge over time, adding focus and drive. A long, multi-dimensional finish rounds things out nicely…. 92 points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate
2009 Passopisciaro Contrada Chiappemacine …similar to the straight Passopisciaro. It possesses attractive density and expressive fruit, all supported by firm yet well-balanced tannins. A bright, articulate finish adds proportion and balance…. 93 points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate
2010 Passopisciaro Contrada Chiappemacine …reveals a more immediate expression of fruit. Dark red berries, tobacco and mint flesh out on the radiant mid-palate. …an energetic style because of the vintage… impeccably refined and harmonious…. 94 points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate
2009 Passopisciaro Contrada Sciaranuova ….Bright red fruit, flowers, anise and minerals wrap around the palate in this wiry, energetic Nerello Mascalese. This shows substantial vibrancy and cut, along with intense mineral notes… 94 points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate
2010 Passopisciaro Contrada Sciaranuova A totally striking wine… a deep, intriguing bouquet redolent of orange peel, tar, licorice and exotic spices. Dark berries, minerals and rose petals add further complexity on the generous, silky finish…. 94+ points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate
2009 Passopisciaro Contrada Porcaria …exquisite wine layered with dark, sensual fruit. …muscular yet weightless… The wine takes shape beautifully in the glass as it gains notable intensity all the way through to the palate staining finish…. 94 points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate
The latest issue of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate is out: Issue 207 released June 28, 2013! This issue is jam-packed with 2,685 wines! To make things easy, we’ve listed wines here that were reviewed and are currently in stock. We’ll be adding wines to this list as they arrive so check back to this feature again.
Again, again and yet again. So many beautiful bottles from Paul Hobbs, 2010, 2011, cabernet, pinot noir and chardonnay, Ratings of 92 and up from almost everyone. Hobbs is so consistent I’m happy to join his cult, at least make him my BFF. Paul’s secret whether he’s in California or Argentina is that he’s so careful and fussy about the vineyards all year long, but once they’re in the winery he’s a hands-off, non-interventionist. Wish I knew which I liked best. The ’10 Napa cab is deep with dark berries and wild lavender and as smooth as chocolate. The new pinot from the Larry Hyde vines in Carneros is a candy box of spiced plums and berries wrapped in silk. The Sonoma Mountain chard is rich, elegant and packed with golden fruit and custard. Take your pick. Or try all three and you tell me your favorite. Great prices on so much Paul Hobbs is a rare treat. Indulge yourself.
2010 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon …mocha, chocolate, violets and new leather. Despite its explosive personality, the straight Napa Valley bottling is pretty approachable for the vintage. I especially like the focus of the finish…. 92 points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate
2011 Paul Hobbs Chardonnay Richard Dinner Vineyard …Botrytis gives the wine much of its intriguing personality. …volume, texture and viscosity. Passion fruit, sage, crushed rocks, exotic white flowers, nuts and a hint of nutmeg all flow through to the finish…. 92-94+ points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate
2011 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir Hyde Vineyard …beautifully articulated. Pretty and fruit driven, the 2010 is laced with sweet tobacco, cedar, sage and smoke. …Hobbs has drawn out the density of the fruit but without any excess heaviness…. 91-93 points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate
Way past time for you to enjoy the great table wine from the legendary Port vineyards of the Douro. No better time or place to catch up than with the juicy ’09 Reserva I have from Quinta do Crasto’s 70-year-old vines. The 2008 edition went sky high when Wine Spectator tapped it No. 3 in the Top 100. The 2009 is a winner in my book too, and at a terrific price. It has Tinto Roriz, Touriga Nacional and two dozen other old grapes from the steep schist hillsides of the valley, all handpicked and basket pressed. A big, well-built wine, brick red and purple; sumptuous texture, whiffs of cinnamon and wild herbs, fresh berries and plums with a very long finish. A truly fine wine that would sell for a lot more if it were from any other country. …Which makes visiting Portugal in a bottle as smart as it is delicious.
2009 Quinta do Crasto Reserva Old Vines
…A big drink of deep purple, sumptuous fruit flavors, whiffs of cinnamon, rich texture, and long easy finish. There’s a simpler red, long on Tinta Roriz (that’s Tempranillo on this side of the border), more flowery in the nose…
Guy Charlemagne is one of my most delicious discoveries, great grower Champagne in the grand cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (yes, that Mesnil!) and this is his beautiful “Mesnillesime” cuvee from the best vintage since 1998. Easy to find since Charlemagne is right across the street from the great house of Salon which may be why so many people overlook it. Not me. Charlemagne’s ’04 is a gorgeous wine, their very best. All the elegance and unctuous palate, 100% chardonnay and low dosage. When I was visiting Salon last week, the ’02, ’04, ’06 and ’08 bottles were stack high in the cellar but you won’t taste the ’04 Salon for another 4 or 5 years. Yet the ’04 Guy Charlemagne is yours now. Why wait? This is an exceptional Champagne you should pop now!
2004 Guy Charlemagne Mesnillesime Grand Cru
…one of my most delicious discoveries… a gorgeous wine… All the elegance and unctuous palate, 100% chardonnay and low dosage…. an exceptional Champagne you should pop now!
Michel and Dany Rolland produce one of the top wines of Fronsac at their home estate of Fontenil. Note that it is both of them that we mention here and not just Michel, Fontenil being about their love of winemaking and the estate they came to own and live and make wine together at in the mid 1980s. Yes Michel jets around consulting the rich and famous but at Fontenil it is a family affair and truly a labor of love. In 2010 I tasted all the wines of the family with Dany and she really lit up when we tasted and talked about Fontenil. It is the slopes of the village of Saillans as well as the talents and hearts of the Rollands that the wine comes from. Yes, and from 2009 also, a vintage of Fontenil Michel calls “grandiose with power and harmony.” Enough said. (14.5%) 92/100.
2009 Chateau Fontenil
…relatively hefty alcohol at 14.5%, but it is not noticeable in this full-bodied, layered, opulent wine, with lots of black raspberry fruit intermixed with some blueberries and crushed rock…. 92 points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate
Few New World vintners make chardonnay to age 10 years, or worth 95 points. David Ramey (photoed below) does because he’s a Burgundian at heart with an American eye for innovation and precision in terroir. Of his three vineyard-designated chards, the Platt is the one closest to the Cote d’Or for me – and Wine Advocate, too. Best chard in America from 2010 at this price. It’s from Ramey’s coolest site in the Sonoma Coast just a few miles from the Pacific, and the grapes age sur lie for almost two years. So the wine has grand cru breadth, mineral drive and tart salty whiffs of citrus and the sea. And like fine white Burgundy, a keeper. If you know David’s fab cabs and syrahs, you’ve got to taste his brilliance with chardonnay. You’ll want several to cellar. Thank me later.
2010 Ramey Chardonnay Platt Vineyard
The 2010 Chardonnay Platt Vineyard stands out in this range. A big, broad-shouldered wine, the Platt is actually reminiscent of a red wine in its structure. Lemon, oyster shells, salt and all sorts of citrus notes are woven throughout in this intense, saline finish. Think of the Platt as a California version of Corton-Charlemagne. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. 95 points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate
I love how the Spanish savor time. Great wineries like Lopez de Heredia have already cellared it for you. This Tondonia Gran Reserva was just released and it’s already 18 years old. A fabulous wine that’s ready to drink or to cellar. The color’s now a touch amber, the wine is smooth, plush and still fresh with cherry and berry, smelling of smoke and leather. Everything about Lopez de Heredia has a rich patina, one reason W&S ranked it a Top 100 winery. Patriarch Rafael founded it in 1877 and bought the Tondonia vineyard in Rioja Alta 100 years ago. Gotta see the place when you’re in Haro: century old buildings plus a swooping modern Zaha Hadid pavillion as cool and modern as the Guggenheim in Bilbao (photo below). Perfect setting to treasure historic wines like this. When a vintage like ’94 is deemed great enough for a gran reserva, the best of it spends eight years in barrel, and if approved even more time. It’s an old style blend, three quarters tempranillo plus graciano and mazuela. Seems like you oughta pay more for so much history in a bottle, but it’s well under $100. Rioja lovers have to have this wine. There will be others… but you’ll have to wait.
1994 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva The 1994 Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva has an elegant bouquet with light red cherries, orange blossom, mahogany bureau and burnt buttered toast. The palate has a meaty, savory entry with crisp tannins and racy acidity. It displays superb structure towards the finish where one finds notes of bitter lemon, orange peel and sage. Delicious! Drink now-2030+.
Only in America could a first growth like the fabulous Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards be on a first name basis with its devotees: it’s plain Todd to any of you who have met the long tall Anderson on his trips here. I’m especially partial to his rock smarts; Todd was a geologist before he started grapes near Howell Mountain 30 years back. Friendly giant of a guy. Same goes for his Bordeaux reds: Big, powerful, and worth taking time to get to know. The 2010 estate reserve cabernet is another exceptional wine, of great purity with all those adult flavors of dark fruits, anise and tobacco. Give it five years and the black magic in this bottle will thrill. Lay down a couple for a long-term relationship that will last decades.
2010 Conn Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
…serious power and depth. Layers of blue and black fruit, smoke, tobacco and licorice are woven together beautifully. Vivid yet rich and resonant… creamy, layered finish laced with expressive blue and black fruits… 93-96 points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate