Tag Archives: mosel

Ernst Loosen, Doctor of Riesling: Here With Red Slate, Blue Slate, Gold.

Ernst Loosen, the madcap wizard who modernized the reputation of the Mosel, brings his wines and his smarts to B-21, this Saturday. Loosen is a master of innovation and tradition. He made the first German-American hybrids with Chateau Ste. Michelle yet is a vigorous defender of the Mosel’s terroir and precision. He’s been a strong opponent of the new super-bridge over the wine valley. Maybe it’s because he has such a great sense of balance that he’d prefer a tightrope.
He’ll be here from 1 to 5 p.m. Saturday for an afternoon of tastings, seminars and sales of a half dozen of his wines, from kabinett to auslese. Laughs by the case are free.

 

 

The next big thing in restaurants: Far north of the Mediterranean

Gastro PubWhile bruschetta won’t disappear (wish it would), look for more smart chefs to take your tastebuds move into the cuisines of colder climates. The flavors of Scandinavia, Austria, Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium, Russia  and even Korea are increasingly on offer in new restaurants from New York to London, if not yet Florida.  One attraction is the warmth of comfort food, the other appeal is the flip side of seasonal cooking: What and how to cook in winter when nothing is in season.

For centuries northern cooks have pickled, dried, smoked, cured, jellied, jammed and preserved summer’s bounty of vegetables, pork and fish to eat during the long cold winter. Today’s smart chefs have been relearning all these processes in house especially when the haus is a gastropub.  The allure of serving house-made gravlax, pickled beets, pork belly, red cabbage and spaetzle in minimalist decor is irresistible.  I mean once you’ve had tapas, sushi and mezze, can the smorgasbord be far behind?  Of course that’s not food made for merlot, but perfect for Alsatians and Mosels, riesling, gewurz, g.v., pinot blanc and lighter German reds.  And beer, which we Americans now know how to brew.

German Wine Puzzle Solved: One Secret Word Guarantees 90+ Elegance

Joh. Jos. Prum
Joh. Jos. Prum

One of the great pleasures I’ve had in the last ten years is the beauty of German wines, as terroir-driven and perfectly made as great Burgundies and longer lived (and more affordable). Yet too many wine lovers miss out because they’re stumped by the Gothic labels. So I’ll make it easy. One word: Prum. Actually it’s the Joh. Jos. Prum winery so we just call it Prum, JJ for short. The rest is simpler than it looks in that medieval typeface. The grapes are always Riesling. All the vineyards are on steep, schist-rich slopes along the Mosel, the only region with 90+ vintages for the past 10 years, and the Prums are always in the 90s too. They make terrific wines, perfumed with apples, apricots and cloves, sometimes slightly honeyed, always racy with minerality, fresh as a walk in the hills and terrific with food. Your only big choice is ripeness, a drier Kabinett, a Spatlese or the fuller Ausleses. Any Prum. Mosel Riesling has remarkable longevity. Bet you’ll love them right now too.