It’s not unusual for producers in Burgundy to have very small plots of vineyard, but this is crazy! Next to the driveway and in front of the house at Domaine Gallois, where the front lawn would usually be, was a teeny tiny vineyard! Not just for show either, these grapes make about ½ barrel of wine which is used in the Gevrey Chambertin village blend.

As we drove up to the house these vines (and everywhere else) were covered with a bright layer of snow and more was falling thick and fast. Dominique Gallois met us at the car and swiftly ushered us down the stone steps leading under the house to the modest cellar.

The domaine is in the heart of the picturesque and eminent village of Gevrey Chambertin. In 1901 Dominique’s great grand father owned several small parcels (or ‘climats’ as they’re called here) all the way down to Volnay and through the generations the size of land holdings fluctuated, once to a diminutive 2.5 hectares. Now over 100 years later, Dominique has 4ha of which one is Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru including Combes aux Moines, Petits Cazetiers and Goulots and he proudly lays claim to 0.3ha of Grand Cru Charmes Chambertin.

With Burgundy producers there are no airs and graces, these are farmers and winemakers whose entire existence has revolved around making wine that the world adores and reveres – but it has never gone to their heads. This is especially true of owner and winemaker Dominique who is friendly and welcoming yet shy and reserved.

Down in the cellar he was soon pulling wines out of the barrels with his handy wine thief. Each one had its individual personality which underscores the uniqueness of every minuscule plot that gives Burgundy its allure and appeal.

As small as the 2011 vintage was due to untimely rain during the summer, Dominique thinks the wines it produced are really rather special. He talks of the “rich, integrated tannins” and calls it a ‘gourmand’ vintage.

We were tasting along appreciating the different nuances of Gevrey Chambertin and then it happened! We’d just spat the impressive minerality and dense fruit of the Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combes aux Moines and were on to the final wine. Something special was going on in that glass. I sniffed the wine a few times, if ever there was a ‘Pinot Noir’ aroma, this was it, on steroids! Earthy like being in woods just after a rainfall, cherried like the lush, rich, plump ones on top of a cheesecake and, on the palate, more of the same – much more – layers and layers of flavor that just kept coming in tidal waves. What was it? Just my ‘wine of the trip’! The Gevrey Chambertin Grand Cru Charmes Chambertin 2011. If it’s this good now and is still such a baby, I can only imagine how it will evolve with a few more years of ageing. One word – incredible.

Four hectares of vineyards may not be much, but in the hands of Dominique Gallois, small certainly is mighty! (or small is mighty alright!)