All posts by Rhett Beiletti

Scottish Treasure: 25yr Collectible Cutty

Buy Cutty Sark 25yr Tam o' Shanter Blended Malt Scotch at b-21.com.
91 points, Whisky Advocate …big flavors; burnt orange, juicy raisin, and dark chocolate; rich oak and exotic spice. A treat, and worthy of its heritage. But at that price—and bearing in mind it’s a limited edition—are you going to open it?

Taking the name of Scotsman Robert Burns’ poem, also containing a character bearing the name of this brand, Tam o’ Shanter is not your father’s Cutty! Remember the prevalent clipper ship in the bottle in the 70s? Some even the more ambitious fathers built it for their children (or themselves)!

Well, Cutty Sark has upped its game here with the release of Tam o’ Shanter, a Scotch aged 25 years. Hand selected by Master Blender Kirsteen Campbell, leader of a new generation of distillers, this Gold Medal winner is a limited release (only 5,000 bottles). It sits snugly in an oak box and is accompanied by a 50-page booklet of drawings commissioned from Scottish artist Alexander Goudie. This ruggedly handsome bottle, based on the oldest bottles among Cutty’s archives, will add that clubby and manly feel to any bar. Maybe that builder of ships in your family deserves an update on Cutty Sark now.

Just Released: Shop Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate Issue #212!

Shop The Wine Advocate Issue # 212.The latest issue of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate is out! This issue is jam-packed with 3,615 wines! To make things easy, we’ve listed wines here that were reviewed and are currently in stock. We’ll be adding wines to this list as they arrive so check back to this feature again.

PS – you can sign up for email alerts to be notified when The Wine Advocate has released a new issue and we’ve updated this feature.

Fantastic Fronsac: 2009 Fontenil

Dany and Michel Rolland produce one of the top wines of Fronsac at their home estate of Fontenil.
Dany and Michel Rolland produce one of the top wines of Fronsac at their home estate of Fontenil.

Michel and Dany Rolland produce one of the top wines of Fronsac at their home estate of Fontenil. Note that it is both of them that we mention here and not just Michel, Fontenil being about their love of winemaking and the estate they came to own and live and make wine together at in the mid 1980s. Yes Michel jets around consulting the rich and famous but at Fontenil it is a family affair and truly a labor of love. In 2010 I tasted all the wines of the family with Dany and she really lit up when we tasted and talked about Fontenil. It is the slopes of the village of Saillans as well as the talents and hearts of the Rollands that the wine comes from. Yes, and from 2009 also, a vintage of Fontenil Michel calls “grandiose with power and harmony.” Enough said. (14.5%) 92/100.

Buy 2009 Chateau Fontenil, Fronsac
2009 Chateau Fontenil
…relatively hefty alcohol at 14.5%, but it is not noticeable in this full-bodied, layered, opulent wine, with lots of black raspberry fruit intermixed with some blueberries and crushed rock….
92 points, R. Parker’s Wine Advocate

The Fresh Side of White Bordeaux: Graville-Lacoste and Ducasse

Bordeaux is an obsession of mine as you might know. White Bordeaux is an almost rare experience really, and to find wines that reflect terroir and the clear value of that these two wines do is astounding. We taste at least once a year with proprietor Herve Dubourdieu, either traveling to taste Kermit Lynch’s portfolio somewhere or in Bordeaux, and he knocks it out here with Graville-Lacoste and Ducasse. Graville comes from a particularly cool microclimate in the Graves region to the south of the city of Bordeaux, is fine and linear. Ducasse, the second and dry wine offering of Sauternes property Roumieu-Lacoste (situated between Climens and Doisy-Daene) shows a rounder palate feel than Graville and shows slightly lower acid perhaps due to its fullness.

Herve Dubourdieu, proprietor of Graville-Lacoste and Ducasse.
Herve Dubourdieu, proprietor of Graville-Lacoste and Ducasse.

2011 Chateau Graville Lacoste
75% Semillon: taut and intense of the bunch. Evergreen, chalk, lean, racy and extremely long.
91 points, Rhett Beiletti, B-21

2011 Ducasse Blanc
60% semillon, subtle, towards lush but dry, earthy, mineral, mushroom, lemon, pineapple, submerged, silky.
90 points, Rhett Beiletti, B-21

“Both are of high proportions of Semillon and are striking and pure examples of the value that Bordeaux has to offer, white or red.” -RB

Haut-Bergey: A Modern Classic

Haut-Bergey proprietor Hélène Garcin just visited B-21 in April, the second time in a year, and Bob and I were unable to join her for dinner in January due to a travel mishap. Call it a home and away series. You recognize her since we promote her wines, Barde-Haut, Clos L’Eglise, Branon and Poesia in Argentina, and Haut-Bergey here. Haut-Bergey is her bargain deluxe in the heart of Pessac-Leognan. The style is more lush than is common in Pessac, a modern classic so to speak. I’ve not tasted it again since from barrel in 2011, it just arrived last week, but remember it being very similar to 2009, just as voluptuous if not a bit more amplified and “ripped.” (14%)

 

 

2010 Chateau Haut Bergey Rouge

…displays classic tobacco leaf and smoky barbecue notes along with rich black currants and crushed rocks in a medium to full-bodied, seductive, attractively up-front style. …It is a sleeper of the vintage.

A La Minute: ’09 Lafon-Rochet Is In!

A pure classic and one of the top Bordeaux wines of its price, 2009 Lafon-Rochet is a stunner. Their neighbors, Lafite and Cos D’Estournel, probably wonder why they charge so little. Let’s go with it! Tasting barrel samples, I remember it was one of the standouts then, and tasting it for the first time from bottle confirmed it. For my money, in fact, St-Estephe was the top commune of the vintage from top to bottom. Initially sinewy, the dark and fine flavors are deep, a bit linear and considerably structured. Lafon-Rochet is straight-laced, stately and excellent. 94 points. (14%)

 

2009 Chateau Lafon-Rochet

…Spicy red cherry, cedar, tar, ash and incense on the nose… terrific depth and freshness to the smoky blackberry, dark plum and mineral flavors. Sound acids… long, youthfully tannic finish….

Medoc Machismo!

Remarkably situated along the Gironde River on the north shore of the Medoc, and impeccably run by Bernard Magrez, Les Grands Chênes shows the magical value quotient of the Medoc. A 50/40/10ish split between merlot and cab and cab franc, Les Grands Chenês comes by its polish honestly, being consulted by Michel Rolland. Winner of a Medaille D’or in 2011, that’s the gold, at the Concours General Agricole in Paris, LGC shows rich and dark fruit and opulent texture with fresh acids too, and value: a wine like this from Napa Valley would cost $50. Drinks beautifully now and will continue to evolve for 10 years, easily. Snare your non-Bordeaux drinking friends in your wine web with this one. 90 points. (14%)

 

2009 Chateau Les Grands Chênes

…loads of espresso roast, black chocolate, creme de cassis, forest floor and tobacco leaf in a full-bodied, opulent, and flamboyant style. Dense, rich and deep in fruit, it exhibits the plush, silky tannins…

Shining Bright: 2009 Arnauton Grand Sol

We dig Fronsac wines at B-21, the commune is the right bank’s seminal source of outsized value wines. Chateau Arnauton, sitting at one of the high points of the Gironde, delivers Bordeaux deluxe with its Cuvee Grand Sol of the 2009 vintage. In keeping with the style of the vintage, Grand Sol, made of about 80% merlot, 15% cab franc on a southern facing slope, is lush and ripe, leaning to the modern style without any over extraction; rich with plush texture, dark and floral, and a clean and lengthy finish give this delicious deliverance. Ready to drink right now as well, it is a wine to bring many drinkers steering to the right bank of Bordeaux. 92 points. (14.5%)

 

2009 Chateau Arnauton Grand Sol

…fruits interwoven again with some crushed chalk and spring flowers make for some complex aromatics. Add some raspberry notes in the fruit flavor profile in the mid-palate, in addition to the full-bodied finish…

Go Back In Time – And Price! 2008 Smith Haut Lafitte

As the “great” vintages go by and prices go up on them, certain “classic” vintages become more and more attractive. 2008 is one those vintages delivering wines with balance and character that have been passed over for blockbusters and critics raves. Seeing the last prices of a hot property like Smith Haut Lafitte in sought after vintages like 2009 and 2010 ($150 and $129, respectively) makes wines like this one considerable; especially with a chateau like Smith Haut Lafitte and experienced buyers that like a property, know what it tastes like and like it for that reason. The Cathiard family, you recognize the name if you are a snow skier from the Olympics, has continued to further the reputation of this classified growth (for red wine only) and we have it here for the smart money.

 

2008 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte

…elegant, smoky wine has hints of barbecue pit intermixed with sweet black currants and cherries. Dark purple and medium to full-bodied, …impressive finesse… wonderful purity…

2010 Bordeaux: Balanced Act by Le Pey

Over the last few weeks I have been revealing what I believe to be the top values in 2010 Bordeaux vintage, and in countdown fashion I have reached the summit this week: 2010 Chateau Le Pey.

This Medoc wine has been on my radar since the 2000 vintage and this, the 2010, is the best vintage I have tasted. Finally moving to over half cab (55%), the balance merlot, I think the Chateau has reached the point of perfection. To expect more out of $15 wine is to set up all those $30-$40 wines for failure. This is medium weight, supple, shows fine tannins and is authentic Bordeaux with structure to develop for 10 years while having the finesse to drink early. I tasted this while visiting Bordeaux in January and it was the single best value of the trip. 92/100. (13.5%)

 

2010 Chateau Le Pey

…the Chateau has reached the point of perfection…. medium weight, supple, shows fine tannins and is authentic Bordeaux with structure to develop for 10 years while having the finesse to drink early….

Collect Great Wine Now: 2010 Chateau Cantemerle!

A historical gem has been restored. Over the last 25 years Cantemerle has once again taken its place among the top Chateaux of Bordeaux, a stature it achieved in the 1855 Classification of the Wines of the Gironde. Classic and collectible Bordeaux, Cantemerle sits close to the banks where the Garonne River breaks off the Gironde . This is a wine that will reward patience, and a wine that stands out among others its price around the world. Buy it by the case because you can drink it now to see just how good it is and hold for a good long time to reap the benefits of just what a wine of its kind can become. You’ll be happy that did!

 

2010 Chateau Cantemerle

…Stunningly deep ruby/purple, with a beautiful nose of spring flowers intermixed with perfumed raspberry and blueberry notes, it exhibits a sort of cool-climate character. Broad, rich and intense on the palate…

’09 La Dame de Montrose – Straight Outta St-Estephe

Power, power, power! And to think that it is 82% Merlot, the balance cab s, take that and rewind it back, it will astound anyone ever thinking that merlot doesn’t have the deepness of cab. This is a WOW! wine that is rich with dark berry fruit, wet earth, soy and chocolate, very resonant, dark and long. Saint-Estephe was maybe the most overachieving commune of the vintage and Montrose, the parent unit of Dame, was one of the best wines made in 2009. This is the best version of the dame yet. So perfectly ripe and so meticulously crafted that the tannins are layered and add complexity only, and while the wine is youthful it does not taste young. Bold and big, this wine is very open to drink now and I do not see it closing down at all, it is so perfectly balanced. One of the best 2nd wines I have tasted. 93/100. (13.5%)

 

2009 La Dame de Montrose

Deep aromas of blueberries, spices, fresh chanterelles, and grapes ,follow through to a full body, with velvety tannins and a spicy finish. Intense and structured. Second wine of Montrose….

Chateau Cote Montpezat: Castillon Star Shines in ’09

We tasted this treat last week, and it is one of the most successful under $20 wines of the 2009 Bordeaux vintage. Broad and juicy, bursting with black cherry and glints of savory red fruits too, it pushes the ripe button but has no overripe qualities at all. Some chocolate and smoky meat tones fill the mid palate and resonate after the initial swell of vibrant fruit, the finish pure with fresh mineral touches. This modern-styled Bordeaux will please the Aussie and CA drinker for sure. Big, supple and fresh at the same time, made of mostly merlot from the slopes of the north bank of the Dordogne river, the cabernet franc gives it the verve that keeps it distinctively right bank! 90/100. (14.5%)

2009 Chateau Cote Montpezat
Cuvee Compostelle

…juicy, bursting with black cherry and glints of savory red fruits too… Some chocolate and smoky meat tones fill the mid palate and resonate after the initial swell of vibrant fruit, the finish pure with fresh mineral touches….

2010 Landiras – 91 Point Sleeper of the Vintage

One of the most exciting finds in a while is this 2010 Landiras rouge, from the near ancient property in the Graves region of Bordeaux. The 2010 vintage in Bordeaux is perhaps not as homogenous as 2009 in quality. Last week we told you of Tour St. Bonnet that Parker called one of the sleepers of the vintage, well, Landiras is one of the 2 top values I pick for 2010 and we will reveal the other in another email soon. Landiras is true Bordeaux in style, 70% merlot, 30% cabernet, showing merlot’s polish and cabernet’s crush, silky and elegant, fragrant and fresh, showing touches of fresh herbs and charcoal and both black and red fruits, very pure on the palate. Dry and tensile with some tenderness as well. A very complete wine and a superb example of what is possible in Bordeaux for very little money! 91/100. (13.5%)

 

images/landiras-b.gif

2010 Landiras Graves Rouge

…silky and elegant, fragrant and fresh, showing touches of fresh herbs and charcoal and both black and red fruits, very pure on the palate. Dry and tensile with some tenderness as well. A very complete wine…